Working on a small diorama for a upcoming show. Tamiya type 95 Kurogane with a Gaso-Line Japanese figure. Gaso-Line has a great line of figures and suggest that you check them out. This build was simple and easy, but a extremely great way to spend a weekend. I really like this subject and the Gaso-Line figure is perfect for this little diorama.
As you can see from the pictures above I have completed the the build and painted the basic coat on the kit. The kit was super easy to build, I really don’t expect anything more from Tamiya 1/48 kits. I spent a total of three hours building this kit and did add a few small details. The inside of the doors on the kit are completely blank so I added some detail. I also added the pedals for the drivers compartment. Overall this was a fun build. Below I have added some images and information on the vehicle.
The Type 95 accommodated 3 persons – two in the front and
one in the back. The two-cylinder, V-twin, four-stroke, air-cooled gasoline
engine, which developed 33 PS (24 kW; 33 hp) @ 3,300rpm, was an advantage in
cold climates found in China, and had 4-wheel drive, using a gearshift
activated transfer case to engage the front wheels. It was manufactured without
weapons and unarmored. It had advantages over the Type 97 motorcycle used by
the Japanese Army, which had much less off-road mobility, and so limited troop
mobility. It had tall, narrow wheels which helped it to travel over rough
terrain, mud and snow.
The Type 95 was first conceived in 1934, by the Japanese Imperial Army as a small rough terrain vehicle to do reconnaissance, deliver messages to the field, and transport personnel. The military asked Toyota Industries Corporation Motor Vehicles Division to collaborate with Kurogane to design and manufacture the new vehicle. Toyota MVD was building the Toyota G1, and Okamoto Bicycle and Automobile Manufacturing, which was absorbed into Daihatsu. The prototype was the result, using a Japanese-built internal combustion engine. Mass-production began in 1936. At the time, military operations in Mainland China and Southeast Asia, a mass-produced military vehicle equipped with Japan’s first four-wheel drive mechanism, increased mobility in the area’s rough terrain. This car was first used in the Nomonhan Incident, and later during the Pacific War and Greater East Asia War for its primary purpose, as well to carry mainland Army and Navy officer flagship passengers as a 4-door version. The front grille had the Imperial Japanese Army’s five-pointed star which signified sakura, or cherry blossom, which has special cultural significance. 4,775 copies of the car were built with some minor changes, such as mechanical and body adjustments. Production ended in 1944.
Today, most modern model kits will have Link to Link tracks
instead of the old rubber bans style, that we all grew up on. Some people love them,
others hate them. Personally, they don’t
bother me, but I do like to keep the tracks and road wheels separate, to make
the painting and weathering process is cleaner. Since I love to work mostly in
1/48 scale, this becomes a chore in many ways. Following the steps below however, can make
the process simple and easy and you will be able to keep the tracks and road
wheels separate. For this demonstration I used Tamiya’s excellent 1/48 Scale
Panzer III Ausf. N.
1. The first thing I do is cut the parts I need to run the
first part of the track from the runners. I always start with the bottom track,
go forward and over the drive sprocket. As you see below, I have cut out the
parts and cleaned them. I then placed them in the order that I will glue them. Make sure your tracks are facing the proper
direction of movement.
2. The next step is
to glue the tracks together in two parts. First, I glue the bottom run together
and then I glue the part that will go over the drive sprocket. I use Tamiya
Extra Thin Glue (green top). This glue takes a bit longer to dry, so it gives
you more time to form the tracks around the wheels and sprockets.
3. After I glued the two sections of the bottom and sprocket
run together, I immediately turn the track run on it side and glue the sections
together. Once this is complete, I leave the tracks on their side and let them
dry for about 8 to 10 minutes. As they dry, I cut the upper portion of the
track off the runner and clean this up.
This usually takes the right amount the time I need for the glue to dry.
As you can see below, the track is on its side and all sections for the front
are together and drying.
4. After 8 to 10 minutes of drying, I take the tracks, place
them on the tank, roll them up and over the drive sprocket and then connect
them to the upper piece of the track. During this stage make sure to not glue
the tracks to the kit. You want to be
able to remove them from the kit to paint and weather.
5. As the tracks dry, I cut the rear section of the track
and clean them up. Once clean, I will glue this together as an individual
section, as shown below. Once you have waited 8 to 10 minutes, you need to
attach the track section to the other already on the kit. Do not glue them together. Once on the kit,
form the tracks over the rear idler wheel and make sure the length and sag are
correct. To keep these parts together, I use Tamiya tape to hold them until
dry. As a reminder, this section will not be glued to the other until painting
and weathering are complete. As you can see from the picture below, I have
placed the rear section of the racks on the kit to form the arch in the tracks.
I have also placed a piece of tape over the section to hold them together in
the drying process.
With the glue dried I remove
the rear section of track and place it to the side. You can see that this action has achieved
the desired curl on the track.
6. With the rear section of track not glued, as shown in picture one, you can remove the run of tracks and paint and weather them seperatly. In picture two I have fitted the two track sections together (not glued), to show the fit of the completed track.In the third and finale picture below you can see that the tracks on the tank. You now have a set of tracks that fit the tank and show the correct sag and best of all you can remove them to paint and weather.
I hope you find this helpful when you decide to tackle your
next set of Link to Link tracks.
Amusing Hobby has started showing images and the actual kit of there Ferinand jagdpazer Sd.Kfz 184 with full interior and also with a 16ton Strabokran crane. This is one big kit. It seem Andy from Andy’s Hobby Headquarters has one so I hope to see a review and build on his YouTube page in the future.
Super slow progress on my panzer III Ausf.N, one side on the tracks complete. Back section not glued so I can remove them to paint. Also tore up the return and road wheels to show wear.
Sorry for the slowness of this build, I had a few things come up and I haven’t been 100% over the last few weeks. Had a few stomach issues and that really drained me of all my energy. But, feeling better and getting started again.
Working on a Confederate Signal Corp soldier in General Lees command group at Gettysburg 1863. Minisoldiers Washington artillery soldier with new hat and a few small changes. Just started the base coat for the face and fit of flag. See brief history of Confederate Signal Corp below.
Edward P. Alexander, Myer’s assistant in testing the wigwag signaling system, resigned his U.S. Army commission on May 1, 1861, to join the Confederate Army as a captain of engineers. While organizing and training new recruits to form a Confederate signal service, he was ordered to report to Brig. Gen. P.G.T. Beauregard at Manassas Junction, Virginia. He became the chief engineer and signal officer of the (Confederate) Army of the Potomac on June 3. After becoming the chief ordnance officer for the Army of Northern Virginia, Alexander retained his position as signal officer, but his other duties took precedence.
Although the Confederate Signal Corps would never achieve a distinct branch identity to the extent that the Union version did, the Confederate Congress authorized its establishment as a separate organization, attached to the Adjutant and Inspector General’s Department, on April 19, 1862, a year before the U.S. Congress did so. The first chief signal officer was Captain William Norris, a Maryland lawyer then a civilian volunteer on the staff of Maj. Gen. John B. Magruder. The corps under Norris was organized to consist of one major, 10 captains, 20 lieutenants, 20 sergeants, and 1500 men detailed from all branches of the service. A signal officer was authorized for the staff at each corps and division. The Confederate Signal Corps perform duties and utilized equipment very similar to their Northern counterparts, with some exceptions. Electric telegraphy was not used in tactical battlefield communications due to shortages of telegraph wire and trained operators. Their aerial telegraphy was performed with similar flags, but with slightly modified codes and movements from the Myer methods. Unlike the Union Signal Corps, however, the Confederate Signal Corps also was chartered to conduct espionage for the South. (Both services provided valuable battlefield intelligence, and sometimes artillery fire direction, from their elevated observation points, but the Confederate corpsmen performed undercover missions behind enemy lines as well.)
Thank you Robert Lane at elan13 Miniatures for the great Gen Longstreet in 54mm sculpture. Your skill and customer services are the best and I am so happy with my Gen. Longstreet. Fantastic job and thanks again may-kingminatures.com.
Check out Roberts items at https://elan13.co.uk/