After the last 14 days with two shows I decided to just try and do something small. Well, that didn’t work out well and I started a conversion of a Games Workshop 28mm Space Marine Centurion. The kit out of the box is a bit to toy looking for me so I decided follow the conversion plans laid out by Master of the Forge ( https://masteroftheforge.com/centurion-tutorial/). If you haven’t taken a look at this page, it is a must.
I followed most of the plans laid out in the tutorial but I had to do a few things to make it my own. Most of the conversion work is done but still need to do some clean up anf add a few small items to complete the kit. I hope yu like this one and if you have any question please feel free to send me comments.
Had a great Saturday at Antelope Valley Desert Classic. Some really nice models and many of the guys and girls from our local group made the trip. As a club we did really well and happy to say I brought home a few awards myself. But the best part was meeting some new people and spending the day catching up with some old friends.
Hello all, quick show report on OrangeCon 2019. I had a great time and enjoyed my day at this show. Orange County IPMS did a great job and the show was a success. I have placed a few images below of the models that I really enjoyed. Again great show and super fun for all.
The last three images are of a 1/32 Zero Trainer, the back seat was completely scratch built and so beautiful (notice the foot pegs are out to allow pilots to access the cockpit). It won Best 1/32 aircraft and overall best aviation model, not sure but I believe it also won Best Of Show.
I also took home a 2nd and 3rd for a few of my kits.
Great painting tutorial ‘The Clansman’ by Marc Masclans
I still remember the first time I painted a historical
figure. It was the Northumbrian Warrior from Latorre Models, sculpted by
Raúl García Latorre himself. Back in 2008 I had not painted anything
other than Fantasy pieces from Games Workshop. I remember the experience
very well because it was a kind of sculpture to which I was not
accustomed, it basically painted itself. The quality of sculpted
materials and textures made me look like a better painter wihtout much
effort. I think this is something that is common to all Latorre sculpts.
I had seen all of Latorre’s works and they always turned out to be a
great source of inspiration, although I never thought that I would end
up painting some of the most emblematic pieces of the historical
miniature world. I am very happy that FeR Miniatures counted on me to
repaint these models, as part of the re-edition of Elite classics.
When I received the documentation for the piece, and we agreed to
look for an approximation to the original work, the truth is that I felt
a burst of respect and responsibility. I’m not used to these jobs where
you have to be methodical, which requires a more classical and artesan
type of painting. This model required proper planning and preparation of
steps to follow in order to stay true to the original.
Luckily there is an article that Raúl wrote years ago about the
process he followed to paint the drawing of the tartan. I followed it
very closely and it helped me a lot during the whole process.
The first part of the work, was to prepare the model by parts, the right arms separately and the sheath of the sword.
I primed the model black and then I gave it a layer of light flesh
with airbrush to brighten especially areas like the shirt. Esentially,
black primer helps me to achieve a solid basecoat on the model, but I
always try to start painting on a gray base applied with airbrush. This
works as a general grisaille to guide the light work.
I started painting the face of the model. Normally I don’t. I usually
work large surfaces first but in this case I especially felt like
starting in that area.
The colours used are similar to those Raul described in his article,
the classic mix of Vermillion, English Uniform and Golden Flesh, to
which I added a drop of black to desaturate. The lights are
progressively Golden Flesh and Vermillion and then Ivory. As shadows, I
use Model Air colors like Mahogany and red. For the deeper shadows I
added some black to the mix.
For the hat I used a base of Enchanted Blue (Citadel) and black and I
added light blues from Scale 75 that have a thicker grain to stipple
the texture of the material.
For the shirt I used Pale Gray, from a set of Nocturna Models paints.
I used it as a base and then I played with Matt Flesh and Ivory for the
lights, always trying to keep it in a fairly gray balance. The shadows
have black and English Uniform and later I added variations to combine
with the rest of the elements of the piece.
As there is already an article on this model, I will not explain
something that I have practically copied from it. I will explain a
little more my experience when it comes to framing the tartan and in the
The first thing I painted, to get the gand of it, were the socks, and
I must confess that I almost lost the game there. I did not plan the
procedure correctly and I was overwhelmed. In fact, I repainted the
socks up to three times. Finally, thanks to the help of Jaume Ortiz and
Fernando Ruiz, I planned the drawing of the diamonds, drawing two
vertical lines in the sock, divided into sections. The first of the
front, in a descending line, had to join with the third of the rear.
From here I drew parallel lines, taking into account that as we got
closer to the foot, the closer the diamonds would be. Then I did the
same procedure in reverse, resulting in a symmetrical pattern.
In the end it was easier than it seemed, but until they gave me the key to solve, it was a nightmare for me.
Regarding the main drawing of the tartan, I realized that you have to
go very slowly and be very systematic to get the most out of it. It is
important to follow a series of steps and be organized so that the
drawing does not lose proportions. The complicated thing in the end was
to frame the drawing over irregular fabrics. We have to do the exercise
of guessing and follow physical logic to properly follow the wrinkles of
the fabric. A true challenge.
In any case, the important thing is to know that small mistakes can
be covered, especially when drawing the finest lines. Throughout the
painting process, I had to correct several times. In this sense I
recommend to always work carefully making sure that we will be able to
make proper lines. It is good and useful to practice on paper, but for
me the important thing is to hold the model properly and have a good
grip of the brush to comfortably draw with precision.
Once the trunk was finished, I glued the sheath of the sword, and the
arms that I had previously painted on the basecoat in order to have
For the NMM of the shield, the idea was to paint first in general,
without differentiating the rivets with Vermin Brown (Citadel) and a
series of brown shades simulating the texture. Later I worked on a
series of washes with black, purple and red inks from Liquitex and
Chesnut ink from Citadel. Once the leather is complete, for the rivets I
used light brown drawing a highlight above and below the rivet, a kind
of O-shaped line, being wider at the top to represent the ‘bling’. Then I
added small light spots with a mixture of Golden Flesh and Ivory.
The dirt in the model was represented using “Smoke” and working with
Model Air’s inks and browns as well as some varnish for the ‘blings’.
It has been a great experience to paint this model, something I recommend to all painters who like challenges. I want to use this opportunity to thank my friend Raúl García Latorre, who has helped me throughout the whole process, guiding and councelling as always. Thank you very much!
Link to article http://volomir.com/en/clansman-painting-tutorial-marc-masclans/?fbclid=IwAR2km-CCZt7UAKxPmHNp963iM49V5_V7eTtAzKE8D8UJVixbkSxGi9nIPJge
Last night I was able to find some time to work on my Das Werk 103/38. I’m really starting to enjoy this build, I completed Part two of this build which focuses on the main pedestal housing of the gun. Overall the build is going quick and really had no issues with the second part of this project. I hope to complete the build this weekend and get some paint on it soon. I have also placed a few images of the really gun to give you references.
As I wait for my decals to finish my VW project, I thought I would tackle my 1/35 scale DAS WERT 3cm Flackvierling 103/38 . I have never done a build review before, so I thought it’s time to give it a try. As I am working on this part time this review will be is stages. The kit is very interesting, and I truly have a soft spot for short range air defense guns.