Space Marine Centurion Conversion in 28mm

After the last 14 days with two shows I decided to just try and do something small. Well, that didn’t work out well and I started a conversion of a Games Workshop 28mm Space Marine Centurion. The kit out of the box is a bit to toy looking for me so I decided follow the conversion plans laid out by Master of the Forge ( If you haven’t taken a look at this page, it is a must.

I followed most of the plans laid out in the tutorial but I had to do a few things to make it my own. Most of the conversion work is done but still need to do some clean up anf add a few small items to complete the kit. I hope yu like this one and if you have any question please feel free to send me comments.

Desert Classic XXIII IPMS Show was fun.

Had a great Saturday at Antelope Valley Desert Classic. Some really nice models and many of the guys and girls from our local group made the trip. As a club we did really well and happy to say I brought home a few awards myself. But the best part was meeting some new people and spending the day catching up with some old friends.

took a third for my Confederate soldier and my Ork Boss, took a second for my Blood Angle Space Marine and Humber 1/49 scout car, and a 1st for my Genestealer Cult Magos.

OrangeCon 2019

Hello all, quick show report on OrangeCon 2019. I had a great time and enjoyed my day at this show. Orange County IPMS did a great job and the show was a success. I have placed a few images below of the models that I really enjoyed. Again great show and super fun for all.

The last three images are of a 1/32 Zero Trainer, the back seat was completely scratch built and so beautiful (notice the foot pegs are out to allow pilots to access the cockpit). It won Best 1/32 aircraft and overall best aviation model, not sure but I believe it also won Best Of Show.

I also took home a 2nd and 3rd for a few of my kits.

‘The Clansman’ by Marc Masclans

Great painting tutorial ‘The Clansman’ by Marc Masclans

I still remember the first time I painted a historical figure. It was the Northumbrian Warrior from Latorre Models, sculpted by Raúl García Latorre himself. Back in 2008 I had not painted anything other than Fantasy pieces from Games Workshop. I remember the experience very well because it was a kind of sculpture to which I was not accustomed, it basically painted itself. The quality of sculpted materials and textures made me look like a better painter wihtout much effort. I think this is something that is common to all Latorre sculpts.

I had seen all of Latorre’s works and they always turned out to be a great source of inspiration, although I never thought that I would end up painting some of the most emblematic pieces of the historical miniature world. I am very happy that FeR Miniatures counted on me to repaint these models, as part of the re-edition of Elite classics.

When I received the documentation for the piece, and we agreed to look for an approximation to the original work, the truth is that I felt a burst of respect and responsibility. I’m not used to these jobs where you have to be methodical, which requires a more classical and artesan type of painting. This model required proper planning and preparation of steps to follow in order to stay true to the original.

Luckily there is an article that Raúl wrote years ago about the process he followed to paint the drawing of the tartan. I followed it very closely and it helped me a lot during the whole process.

The first part of the work, was to prepare the model by parts, the right arms separately and the sheath of the sword.

I primed the model black and then I gave it a layer of light flesh with airbrush to brighten especially areas like the shirt. Esentially, black primer helps me to achieve a solid basecoat on the model, but I always try to start painting on a gray base applied with airbrush. This works as a general grisaille to guide the light work.

I started painting the face of the model. Normally I don’t. I usually work large surfaces first but in this case I especially felt like starting in that area.

The colours used are similar to those Raul described in his article, the classic mix of Vermillion, English Uniform and Golden Flesh, to which I added a drop of black to desaturate. The lights are progressively Golden Flesh and Vermillion and then Ivory. As shadows, I use Model Air colors like Mahogany and red. For the deeper shadows I added some black to the mix.

For the hat I used a base of Enchanted Blue (Citadel) and black and I added light blues from Scale 75 that have a thicker grain to stipple the texture of the material.

For the shirt I used Pale Gray, from a set of Nocturna Models paints. I used it as a base and then I played with Matt Flesh and Ivory for the lights, always trying to keep it in a fairly gray balance. The shadows have black and English Uniform and later I added variations to combine with the rest of the elements of the piece.

As there is already an article on this model, I will not explain something that I have practically copied from it. I will explain a little more my experience when it comes to framing the tartan and in the socks.

The first thing I painted, to get the gand of it, were the socks, and I must confess that I almost lost the game there. I did not plan the procedure correctly and I was overwhelmed. In fact, I repainted the socks up to three times. Finally, thanks to the help of Jaume Ortiz and Fernando Ruiz, I planned the drawing of the diamonds, drawing two vertical lines in the sock, divided into sections. The first of the front, in a descending line, had to join with the third of the rear. From here I drew parallel lines, taking into account that as we got closer to the foot, the closer the diamonds would be. Then I did the same procedure in reverse, resulting in a symmetrical pattern.

In the end it was easier than it seemed, but until they gave me the key to solve, it was a nightmare for me.

Regarding the main drawing of the tartan, I realized that you have to go very slowly and be very systematic to get the most out of it. It is important to follow a series of steps and be organized so that the drawing does not lose proportions. The complicated thing in the end was to frame the drawing over irregular fabrics. We have to do the exercise of guessing and follow physical logic to properly follow the wrinkles of the fabric. A true challenge.

In any case, the important thing is to know that small mistakes can be covered, especially when drawing the finest lines. Throughout the painting process, I had to correct several times. In this sense I recommend to always work carefully making sure that we will be able to make proper lines. It is good and useful to practice on paper, but for me the important thing is to hold the model properly and have a good grip of the brush to comfortably draw with precision.

Once the trunk was finished, I glued the sheath of the sword, and the arms that I had previously painted on the basecoat in order to have better access.

For the NMM of the shield, the idea was to paint first in general, without differentiating the rivets with Vermin Brown (Citadel) and a series of brown shades simulating the texture. Later I worked on a series of washes with black, purple and red inks from Liquitex and Chesnut ink from Citadel. Once the leather is complete, for the rivets I used light brown drawing a highlight above and below the rivet, a kind of O-shaped line, being wider at the top to represent the ‘bling’. Then I added small light spots with a mixture of Golden Flesh and Ivory.

The dirt in the model was represented using “Smoke” and working with Model Air’s inks and browns as well as some varnish for the ‘blings’.

It has been a great experience to paint this model, something I recommend to all painters who like challenges. I want to use this opportunity to thank my friend Raúl García Latorre, who has helped me throughout the whole process, guiding and councelling as always. Thank you very much!

Link to article

Part 2: Das Werk 3cm Flackvierling 103/38 Build Review.

Last night I was able to find some time to work on my Das Werk 103/38. I’m really starting to enjoy this build, I completed Part two of this build which focuses on the main pedestal housing of the gun. Overall the build is going quick and really had no issues with the second part of this project. I hope to complete the build this weekend and get some paint on it soon. I have also placed a few images of the really gun to give you references.

This image shows the instruction sheet and the part for the main part of the pedestal. I really like the instruction sheet and at first, I thought the check boxes for parts was an OK idea but now I really find them useful. They help me stay focused and I don’t miss parts on the build. Trust me there has been many times that I have completed a few models and found parts I just missed and or failed to but on.
This Image shows the two main parts of the pedestal, the gun housing and the firers position and controls. Again, there is some cleanup but nothing major. The detail on these parts and the whole kit are great. I really enjoy the bolt heads and the foot pedals on this kit. Das Werk has done a good job bringing these and other detail to life.
This image shows the right side of the completed pedestal. Detail is crisp and clean. Really like those foot pedals.
This image shows the pedestal and base together. I have placed a 1/35 figure next to this gun to show the overall size. It is a big gun and I haven’t added the four guns and shield yet!
Real gun being used to train new flak teams.
Another image of the real gun.

Part 1: Das Werk 3cm Flackvierling 103/38 Build Review.

As I wait for my decals to finish my VW project, I thought I would tackle my 1/35 scale DAS WERT 3cm Flackvierling 103/38 . I have never done a build review before, so I thought it’s time to give it a try.  As I am working on this part time this review will be is stages. The kit is very interesting, and I truly have a soft spot for short range air defense guns.

Overall the box art is great and with only two-part tree this shouldn’t take long. The box is super sturdy and artwork on sides and back is crisp and well done.

As you can see from this image you get two-part trees and a set of decals in the box. The kit does have some mold lines on the parts, but they are are easily removed and sanded clean. I also found some cleaning need to be done on mold injection points, but this is easily done with a knife and sanding stick.

I this image you see the instruction sheet. I find that they remind me a bit of Wingnut Wings instruction. Overall the instruction sheet is nicely constructed and has check box’s next to each part to help you keep track of progress. Das Werk also breaks down each section the kit into steps which I think is a great idea.
I did run into a few issues during this stage and as you can see from the instruction sheet, I did make a few notes. First part A20 is shown but no arrow was shown on the location on the kit. It wasn’t until I moved to the other side in step 1.1 that I notice A19 and its place, so I went back and added A20 in its proper location. Next, part A26 and A27 should swap location. This will give you the correct look.

Part 1 Complete!! As I stated in the opening, I’m taking this build slow, as I have other to complete but I can say from an hour of building I really enjoy this kit. The overall detail is great, and I always like a new subject in plastic. As I move along in this build, I will send updates.